Title Graphic

BHG FAQ
Seperator Bar

Go Back

This is for the "I think I have a BHG" worry that comes up I think at least once a week on the Supras List. I wrote this so we wouldn't have to keep repeating the same thing over and over and to collect the sometimes missed advice. If you find you do have a BHG don't let it sit that way for a long time. The coolant can do bad things corroding the combustion chamber or worse. Plan on getting it fixed and also realize this is a good time to upgrade the components while you have everything apart. Or if your engine is high mileage you might want to go with a new one. It all depends on your budget, do your research.

  • I have a gurgling noise behind the dash
    This is the main cause for people to fear they have a BHG. Basically all it means is that you have air in your coolant system. This noise you hear is the heater core filling up and the air gurgling out. There can be many reasons for this and the the odds are much greater that it is something other than a BHG.
    • Coolant Change
      This is normal after a flush and fill until you work the air out of the system. The best way to work the air out is just park on a hill and run the engine with the cap off the radiator and let the engine idle for like 10 minutes.
    • Leaking Hose
      A leaking hose could also cause this. Some thing that as the car cools it allows air to be drawn into the system instead of through the check valve on the radiator cap. Look for water dripping from hose connections or water-scale from previous leaks. It is always good to change hoses every couple of years just to keep your cooling system in good repair.
    • Crack
      A crack in the radiator, turbo coolant housing or head could also be the source of the air entering the system. This is much worse than a bad hose because none of these are cheap, but luckily this is a rare occurrence.
    • BHG
      A blown head gasket will let air enter the system by allowing the pressurized exhaust gases to escape the cylinder through the break. The break can let the gasses out, let coolant in or both depending on the severity. A compression test can determine which cylinder has the break or an "Exhaust Gas Sniffer" Snap-On test can check the air in the coolant system for traces of exhaust gases.

  • The "bird cage" light on my dash comes on
    This light, which is on the side of the coolant temperature gauge, indicates that the coolant level in the overflow tank is low or nonexistent. First you might see it when taking sharp turns, or when you start your car as the system heats up it should go away, but you should still check the system to find out why it is low. I would fill it back up to the full line with distilled water and see if it happens again. If you are just driving along straight and happy, and the light comes on, worry. This happened to me and it was because I had a big leak but I couldn't see the coolant steaming out. Stop right away and check why it is on, remember not to open the radiator cap if the engine is hot.

  • White smoke is coming out of the exhaust
    When you see white smoke coming out of the exhaust, but not black (rich fuel) or blue (oil), it means that water/coolant is being burned by the system. When this happens it is a good chance that it is a BHG but you still have a chance if you are on the good side of the Karmic universe.
    • BHG
      A pressurized coolant system can force coolant back into the cylinder either while the engine is running or after you shut it off. So that you can get a cloud of white smoke when you start it up or just continuously while running.
    • Turbo Manifold Crack
      There is a coolant line the feeds the center housing of the turbo with coolant to help keep the temperature down. If the turbo cracks then that coolant can seep through and leak out either through the exhaust or intake side. If it is on the intake side you might be able to smell it or see the residue on the Intercooler Piping. If it is on the exhaust side then you should be able to tell because it won't effect the idle of the car.
    • Head/Block Crack
      Did you cut off a Nun? You cracked your head/block and coolant is seeping through that crack into the cylinder or intake/exhaust ports.
    • Throttle Body Crack
      The throttle body is warmed by a coolant line that goes through it. If it forms a crack, which would be hard to do, it could let coolant seep into the intake charge air.
    • ISC Crack
      The Idle Speed Controller is warmed by a coolant line that goes through it. If it forms a crack, which would be hard to do, it could let coolant seep into the intake charge air.
    • Intake Coolant Hose Leak
      The coolant line that goes to the TB and ISC comes out of the head at the bottom of the intake runners. If the seal isn't good it could leak into the intake runners.

  • Coolant is leaking on the ground from my car
    This most likely isn't a BHG, if it is then you probably would have blown all the coolant out of your car in a matter of minutes. Most likely it is a hose or a connection that is leaking. Trace down where the leak is coming from and replace that hose and others of similar age. Hoses are cheap, it is easy to replace them all at once then for one to blow on the road and ruin you engine just to save $30.

  • When I start my car the idle is rough
    When I get a BHG I get this symptom, 'missing' at high load, and reservoir over flow. But what can cause a rough idle could be a myriad of things. In the BHG case it would be water in the combustion chamber. But a list of some of the possibilities are.
    • Idle Speed Controller
    • Spark Plugs
    • Ignition Wires
    • Clogged Fuel Injector
    • Vacuum Leak
    • Ignition Timing
    • Fuel pressure up system

  • Oil is milky
    Milky oil, under the oil cap or when changing it, means that water/coolant is getting into the oil. This could be a BHG that allows coolant to leak from the coolant channels to the oil channels. It could also be a crack in the head/block. A leak down should indicate which.

  • My coolant overflows out of the reservoir
    When air gets in the coolant system it will expand as the engine heats up. It can then push coolant into the overflow container forcing it to over flow. When the system cools down it will then not be able to suck enough coolant back so you will run low quickly. See the section on "gurgling" for possible sources of air.

  • The coolant tested positive for exhaust contamination
    If you had your coolant tested, with the snap-on tester, and it tested positive for exhaust gasses it is pretty much a sign from God that you have a BHG.


  • My temperature gauge is reading above normal
    My car has "never" overheated. And I have driven in the hottest of weather blasting my A/C with the car full of dorm furniture. If your car is overheating it is because something is wrong with your cooling system. Once you see it start to over heat pull over and let the car idle to cool off running the heater at full blast. The first thing you should to fix it is to replace the radiator cap and thermostat. A bad cap could cause the system to fail to pressurize and a bad thermostat could be stuck open or closed. Also check the radiator for obstructions like leaves or lots of bent cooling fins. If it still persists check that the hoses aren't leaking or old and do a coolant flush. Use distilled water, 30% coolant (depending on your climate), and RedLine Water Wetter. Oil also has an important job of removing heat from the engine. Both from reducing friction heat and pulling it from the engine with synthetic being the best choices in all cases.



Questions, comments, rude remarks contact webmaster.
CygnusX1 hits: 5931389